Riding the Rail
Japan has one of the best rail systems in the world - in my humble opinion of course. It is possible, for example, to transverse almost the entire length of Japan, from Hiroshima in the South to Hakodate in the North - with only a single transfer - in less than a day. When the schedule says a train will leave at 9:23am it leaves at 9:23am; no sooner, no later. Further, with the exception of natural events (snow, earthquakes, etc.) they are rarely, if ever, late in arriving. This is as true for subway trains as it is for the super fast Shinkansen trains.
We have visited Japan on numerous occasions, and have always utilised the train network to its fully extent. If you are planning to use the rail network in a major way, the JR Rail Pass is the single most important item you can buy before departing for Japan. It is not only convenient, it is a real money saver. To illustrate this point, what follows it a dairy - of sorts - of our September 2015 trip to Hiroshima, Japan. Our visit was short - only 8 days, Saturday to Saturday - we nonetheless covered some distance using a 7 Day Green Rail Pass costing ¥38,880 each. (as at Sept 2015).
In the box below is a more recent 21 day Green Pass trip from May 2023 - I have only included the trips to again illustrate the savings available using the JR Pass.
Japan 2023 - JR Rail Pass Example (21 Day Pass)
Day 1 - Fukuoka to Hiroshima
Shinkansen arriving at Himeji Station.
Fukuoka has a rich history, dating back to the 7th century when it was founded as a trading post by the ancient Yamato dynasty. Over the centuries, it has been ruled by various clans, including the Mongol Empire, the Korean Joseon dynasty, and the Tokugawa shogunate.
Today, Fukuoka is known for its vibrant culture, delicious cuisine, and bustling nightlife. It is home to many popular tourist attractions, including the Fukuoka Tower, which offers stunning views of the city and the surrounding coastline, and the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum, which provides a glimpse into traditional Japanese life.
We exchanged our vouchers for the rail passes at Hakata station and boarded the SHINKANSEN SAKURA 564 for Hiroshima - normal cost ¥12,530 - and relaxed for the 79mins journey to Hiroshima.
Rail Pass Update
Normal Ticket Price: ¥12,530
Cumulative Rail Pass Value: ¥12,530 (32% of purchase price)
Cumulative Distance Traveled: 280.7km
Day 2 - Walking Tour of Hiroshima
No train rides today. We instead opted for a self-guided tour of Hiroshima taking in the Hiroshima Castle, A-Bomb Dome, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, and Hondori Shopping Street.
Hiroshima Castle
Hiroshima Castle was originally constructed in the late 16th century by the powerful feudal lord Mori Terumoto, who ruled over the Hiroshima domain. The castle complex was built on a hill overlooking the Otagawa River and was designed to be both a fortress and a residence for the Mori family. The castle was renowned for its impressive architecture and beautiful gardens, and it quickly became one of the most important landmarks in the Hiroshima region. Unfortunately, the original castle was destroyed by the atomic bomb that was dropped on Hiroshima in 1945, along with much of the city. However, the castle was later reconstructed using traditional materials and techniques, and it has since become a popular tourist attraction in Hiroshima. Today, visitors to Hiroshima Castle can explore the various buildings and structures that make up the castle complex, including the main keep, the palace, and several gates and turrets. The castle also houses a museum that showcases the history and culture of Hiroshima, as well as displays of traditional armor and weaponry.
A-Bomb Dome
The Hiroshima A-Bomb Dome, also known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, is a building in Hiroshima, Japan, that was the closest structure to the epicenter of the atomic bomb explosion on August 6, 1945. The building was originally known as the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, and it was designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel and completed in 1915. When the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima, the building was located only 160 meters (525 feet) from the hypocenter of the explosion, which released a tremendous amount of energy in the form of heat, blast, and radiation. The building was one of the few structures that remained standing in the area, though it was severely damaged and the people inside were killed. In 1996, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hiroshima, visited by millions of people each year. The A-Bomb Dome, and the nearby Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park stand as powerful symbols of the horrors of war and the need for humanity to work towards peace and disarmament.
Day 3 - Himeji and Okayama Castles
Back on the rail today for the first of three Castle trek days; today Himeji and Okayama Castles. Himeji is a leisurely 61 mins ride on the SHINKANSEN SAKURA from Hiroshima. We departed at 9:53 and arrived at 10:54. Exit the Himeji station via the North exit and the castle will be visible in the distance. We decided to walk the 1000m to the main castle gate. There are buses and taxis located directly outside the station exit if you prefer.
Himeji Castle
Himeji Castle is a historic castle located in the city of Himeji, in Hyogo Prefecture, Japan. It is also known as "White Heron Castle" due to its beautiful white exterior and resemblance to a flying bird. The castle was first built in 1333, but the current structure dates back to the 17th century. It was designed as a defensive fortress, with a complex network of walls, gates, and moats. Himeji Castle has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is widely considered to be one of the best examples of Japanese castle architecture. It is renowned for its beautiful appearance, intricate design, and well-preserved historical features. The castle has also been featured in many films and TV shows, both in Japan and internationally. The castle's main keep, or donjon, is a five-story structure that is over 30 meters tall. It has a complex system of defensive features, including gun ports, hidden floors, and a labyrinthine layout designed to confuse and trap attackers. The castle's walls are made of a special kind of plaster called "shachihoko-iri" that is resistant to fire and earthquakes. The plaster was mixed with crushed seashells to make it extra durable.
Okayama Castle
Himeji Castle is a historic castle located in the city of Himeji, in Hyogo Prefecture, Japan. It is also known as "White Heron Castle" due to its beautiful white exterior and resemblance to a flying bird. The castle was first built in 1333, but the current structure dates back to the 17th century. It was designed as a defensive fortress, with a complex network of walls, gates, and moats. Himeji Castle has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is widely considered to be one of the best examples of Japanese castle architecture. It is renowned for its beautiful appearance, intricate design, and well-preserved historical features. The castle has also been featured in many films and TV shows, both in Japan and internationally. The castle's main keep, or donjon, is a five-story structure that is over 30 meters tall. It has a complex system of defensive features, including gun ports, hidden floors, and a labyrinthine layout designed to confuse and trap attackers. The castle's walls are made of a special kind of plaster called "shachihoko-iri" that is resistant to fire and earthquakes. The plaster was mixed with crushed seashells to make it extra durable.
Rail Pass Update
Hiroshima to Himeji Normal Ticket Price: ¥11,880 (249.9km)
Himeji to Okayama Normal Ticket Price: ¥4,500 (88.6km)
Okayama to Hiroshima Normal Ticket Price: ¥8,250 (161.3km)
Cumulative Rail Pass Value: ¥37,160 (95% of purchase price)
Cumulative Distance Traveled: 749.7km
Day 4 - Matsue Castle
Back on the rail today for the second of three Castle trek days; today Matsue. Matsue is somewhat of a hike from Hiroshima, and involves a transfer at Okayama Station onto the LTD. EXP YAKUMO train. Whilst comfortable enough, the Yakumo is smaller and slower than the Shinkansen trains. They also rock and roll a lot more. So anyone with a tendency for motion sickness should consider taking some anti-motion sickness pills. The ride from Okayama to Matsue is 153mins each way; bring a good book!
Matsue Castle
Matsue Castle, also known as the "Black Castle," is a historic Japanese castle located in the city of Matsue, Shimane Prefecture, Japan. The castle was constructed in 1611 by Horio Yoshiharu, a feudal lord, and is considered one of the best-preserved castles in the country. The castle is situated on a hill overlooking Lake Shinji, providing stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
The castle was built during the Edo period, a time of peace in Japan, so it was not designed for military purposes. Instead, it was constructed as a symbol of power and authority, and to serve as a residence for the feudal lord and his family. The castle's black exterior was originally made of lacquer and iron filings, giving it a distinctive appearance that has earned it the nickname of the "Black Castle." One of the unique features of Matsue Castle is its use of a "hidden floor" in the main keep. This floor was designed to be used as a secret escape route in case of attack, and is accessed by a hidden staircase that can be quickly closed off in case of emergency. The hidden floor is now open to visitors, and provides a fascinating glimpse into the castle's defensive capabilities.
Rail Pass Update
Hiroshima to Matsue (via Okayama) Return Normal Ticket Price: ¥28,940 (698.6km)
Cumulative Rail Pass Value: ¥66,100 (170% of purchase price)
Cumulative Distance Travelled: 1448.3km
Day 5 - Matsuyama Castle
Back on the rail today for the third of three Castle trek days; today Matsuyama. Matsuyama is further from Hiroshima than Matsue, and also involves a transfer at Okayama Station, this time onto the LTD. EXP SHIOKAZE train. Like the Yakumo the Shiokaze is smaller and slower than the Shinkansen trains. And, like the Yakumo they also rock and roll a lot more. The ride from Okayama to Matsue is 165mins each way.
Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama Castle is a historic fortress located in the city of Matsuyama, in the Ehime Prefecture of Japan. It is one of the most significant castles in the country, and it has a unique history that dates back to the 17th century. The castle is perched atop a hill overlooking the city, providing a stunning view of the surrounding landscape. The hill is also surrounded by a moat, which makes it difficult for enemies to attack the castle. The castle is accessible through a series of gates, and visitors have to climb several flights of stairs to reach the top. However, the climb is worth it, as the view from the top of the castle is breathtaking.
The construction of Matsuyama Castle began in 1602, and it was completed in 1627, under the supervision of the lord of the region, Yoshiaki Kato. The castle was built as a defensive structure, and it played an important role in protecting the region from invading armies. It was also used as a residence for the lord and his family, and as a center for governance and administration.
Rail Pass Update
Hiroshima to Matsuyama (via Okayama) Return Normal Ticket Price: ¥34,100 (751.4km)
Cumulative Rail Pass Value: ¥100,200 (257% of purchase price)
Cumulative Distance Traveled: 2199.7km
Day 6 - Miyajima: Itsukushima Shrine
Miyajima Island, one of the most scenic spots in Japan, has long been regarded as an Island of Gods on the beautiful Seto Inland Sea. It is a romantic and historical island where Itsukushima Shrine, a World Heritage site, is located, along with the Virgin Forest of Mt. Misen, and numerous preserved shrines, temples and historical monuments.
The centuries-old Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社, Itsukushima Jinja) on Miyajima is the source of both the island's fame and its name. Formally named Itsukushima, the island is more popularly known as "Miyajima", literally "shrine island" in Japanese, thanks to its star attraction. The shrine is known worldwide for its iconic "floating" torii gate.
The shrine and its torii gate are unique for being built over water, seemingly floating in the sea during high tide. The shrine complex consists of multiple buildings, including a prayer hall, a main hall and a noh theater stage, which are connected by boardwalks and supported by pillars above the sea.Miyajima Island has a long history as a holy site of Shinto. The island's highest peak, Mount Misen, was worshiped by local people as early as the 6th century. In 1168, Taira no Kiyomori, the most powerful man in Japan during the end of the Heian Period, selected the island as the site of his clan's family shrine and built Itsukushima Shrine.
Rail Pass Update
Hiroshima to MIYAJIMAGUCHI (via JR Sanyo Line) Return Normal Ticket Price: ¥820 (22.8km)
MIYAJIMAGUCHI to Miyajima (via JR Miyajima Ferry) Return Normal Ticket Price: ¥360
Cumulative Rail Pass Value: ¥101,380 (260% of purchase price)
Cumulative Distance Travelled: 2222.6km
Day 7 - Back to Fukuoka
Last day in Hiroshima today before heading back down to Fukouka. Also our last chance to use the 7-day Rail Pass. As can be seen from the below final summary, buying the Rail Pass saved us a substantial amount on our travel plans. The Pass paid for itself by the 2nd day. Had we purchased the tickets individually we would have paid 3 times as much.
We book our tickets several days before to ensure we have both legs of the trips locked in. If we finish our sightseeing early, we go to the ticket office and change our return trip. This has worked better for us than hoping to get a return ticket when we're ready to return; we've had a couple of instances where the trains were busy and we had to wait several hours for a return seat.
There are of course some restrictions when using the Rail Pass. For example, you can't book tickets on the Nozomi and other express Shinkansens. This is changing however, from October 2023. We have also heard that the Rail Pass prices are increasing by approximately 50% in October 2023. This will substantially change the math for the benefit of the pass; in some cases it will be cheaper to purchase the tickets rather than the pass.
Rail Pass Update - Final
Hiroshima to Hakata (Fukouka) Normal Ticket Price: ¥12,530 (228.7km)
Cumulative Rail Pass Value: ¥113,910 (292% of purchase price)
Cumulative Distance Traveled: 2503.3km