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Hawaii

Sun, surf, volcanoes, and culture

Hawaii is more than just a destination; it is a profound sensory experience. From the scent of plumeria on a salt-tinged breeze to the visceral heat of active volcanic vents, the archipelago offers a rare intersection of geological wonder, indigenous heritage, and modern luxury.


Spread across eight main islands (six of which are primary tourist destinations), the Hawaiian chain is the most isolated population center on Earth. This isolation has fostered a unique ecosystem and a culture rooted in aloha—a word that transcends a simple greeting to represent a way of life focused on mutual respect and harmony.


Choosing Your Island

Each island possesses a distinct personality, often referred to as its "vibe." Choosing the right one is the most critical step in planning a Hawaiian holiday.


Oahu: The Gathering Place

Oahu is the heartbeat of the state. It offers a high-energy blend of cosmopolitan luxury and rugged natural beauty. Oʻahu is the most visited island, home to Honolulu, Waikiki, Pearl Harbor, and the legendary North Shore. It’s a blend of city energy and laid‑back surf culture. You can spend the morning shopping in Ala Moana, the afternoon snorkelling in Hanauma Bay, and the evening watching the sun set behind surfers at Waikiki Beach.

  • Waikiki: A world-famous stretch of beach lined with high-rise hotels, designer boutiques, and vibrant nightlife.

  • Honolulu: Home to Pearl Harbor and Iolani Palace, the only royal palace on U.S. soil.

  • The North Shore: During the winter months, this area becomes the epicenter of the surfing world, featuring massive swells at Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay.


Maui: The Valley Isle

Maui is romantic, scenic, and full of contrasts. The Road to Hana winds through rainforests and waterfalls. Haleakalā rises above the clouds like a Martian landscape. Lahaina—before the devastating 2023 fires—was a historic whaling town turned arts hub. Maui is ideal for travellers who want beauty with a touch of luxury.

  • The Road to Hana: A legendary 64-mile drive through rainforests, featuring 59 bridges and 620 curves.

  • Haleakalā National Park: A massive dormant volcano where visitors gather at 10,000 feet to watch the sunrise above the clouds.

  • Kaanapali & Wailea: Prime resort areas known for world-class golf and golden-sand beaches.


Kauai: The Garden Isle

Kauaʻi is the oldest island, carved by time into deep valleys, towering cliffs, and emerald ridges. The Nā Pali Coast is one of the most breathtaking coastlines on Earth. Kauaʻi is quieter, greener, and perfect for travellers who want nature to take centre stage.

  • Na Pali Coast: Towering 4,000-foot sea cliffs accessible only by boat, helicopter, or a strenuous hike.

  • Waimea Canyon: Known as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," offering deep red earth and lush green vistas.


The Island of Hawaii: The Big Island

The youngest and largest island, the Big Island is a place of extremes: snow‑capped Mauna Kea, lava fields that look like frozen rivers, black‑sand beaches, and lush valleys. It’s the best island for volcanoes, stargazing, and dramatic landscapes.

  • Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Home to Kīlauea, one of the world's most active volcanoes.

  • Kona & Hilo: Kona offers sunny weather and famous coffee plantations, while Hilo is lush, rainy, and filled with waterfalls.

Essential Experiences and Activities

Regardless of which island you choose, certain experiences are quintessential to a Hawaiian holiday.


The Luau: A Cultural Celebration

A luau is a traditional Hawaiian feast accompanied by music and dance. While often seen as a tourist staple, a high-quality luau provides deep insight into Polynesian history. You can expect:

  • Kalua Pua’a: Pork slow-cooked in an imu (underground oven).

  • Hula: A storytelling dance form that preserves the history and genealogy of the islands.

  • Poi: A traditional staple made from mashed taro root.


Ocean Adventures

The Pacific Ocean is Hawaii's greatest playground.

  • Snorkeling & Scuba: Sites like Molokini Crater (Maui) or Hanauma Bay (Oahu) offer crystal-clear visibility and the chance to swim with honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles).

  • Manta Ray Night Dives: Off the Kona coast, divers can kneel on the ocean floor while massive manta rays somersault inches above their heads.

  • Whale Watching: From December to May, thousands of North Pacific Humpback whales migrate to Hawaii’s warm waters to mate and give birth.


Practical Planning: Weather and Logistics

When to Go

Hawaii is a year-round destination, but there are subtle seasonal shifts:

  • Dry Season (April to October): The warmest months with the calmest waters, ideal for snorkeling.

  • Wet Season (November to March): Rain is more frequent, though usually localized to the "windward" (east) sides of the islands. This is peak season for professional surfing.


Inter-Island Travel

Most visitors fly into Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) in Honolulu and take short, 30-40 minute puddle-jumper flights to other islands via Hawaiian Airlines or Southwest. There is no passenger ferry service between most islands (except for a limited ferry between Maui and Lanai).


Respecting the Land and Culture (Malama Hawaii)

In recent years, the concept of Mālama Hawaiʻi—to give back to or take care of Hawaii—has become central to tourism. The islands face challenges from over-tourism and environmental fragility.

  • Sunscreen Safety: Only use "reef-safe" sunscreens. Chemicals like oxybenzone and octinoxate are banned in the state because they bleach coral reefs.

  • Wildlife Etiquette: It is a federal offense to touch or harass sea turtles and Hawaiian Monk Seals. Maintain a distance of at least 10 feet.

  • Hiking Safety: Stay on marked trails. Hawaii’s volcanic soil can be unstable, and "off-roading" leads to erosion and the spread of invasive species.


Hawaii is a place that rewards the curious and the respectful. Whether you are seeking the adrenaline of a doors-off helicopter tour or the simple peace of a sunset on a secluded beach, the islands offer a sense of rejuvenation that is difficult to find anywhere else on the planet.

Some of the Places We Ate and Drank
Things We Did
Where We Stayed
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