Temple of the Five Lords
Haikou
A Journey into Hainan’s Most Revered Landmark
The Temple of the Five Lords, known locally as Wugong Temple, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the human will. Located in the southeast of Haikou, this complex is widely considered the most important historical site on the island. It serves as a commemorative space for five famous officials who were banished to Hainan during the Tang and Song Dynasties for their unwavering principles.
As you enter the gates, the bustle of modern Haikou fades, replaced by the scent of incense and the rustle of tropical leaves. The architecture is a classic display of southern Chinese style, featuring intricate wood carvings and sweeping tiled roofs. It is a place where nature and man-made artistry exist in perfect harmony, providing a visual feast for photographers and history buffs alike.
The primary attraction is the Main Hall, a striking two-story building constructed entirely of high-quality wood without the use of metal nails. Its vibrant crimson walls contrast beautifully against the deep green of the surrounding gardens. Standing before it, one feels the weight of centuries, as the building has survived numerous typhoons and the passage of time since its reconstruction in 1889.
Visiting this site offers a unique perspective on the "Exile Culture" of ancient China. While being sent to Hainan was once considered a harsh punishment, these officials brought with them advanced knowledge, literature, and art. Their presence transformed the island's cultural landscape, and this temple serves as a permanent thank-you from the people of Hainan to those who helped shape their identity.
Echoes of the Past: The History of Wugong Temple
The origins of the Temple of the Five Lords are rooted in the complex political landscape of the Tang (618–907) and Song (960–1279) Dynasties. During these eras, Hainan was a remote frontier, often used as a place of exile for court officials who fell out of favor with the Emperor. Despite their displacement, these men—Li Deyu, Li Gang, Zhao Ding, Li Guang, and Hu Quan—remained dedicated to their scholarly and civic duties.
The construction of the current main building took place during the reign of Emperor Guangxu in the Ming Dynasty. It was built specifically to honor these "Five Lords" who contributed significantly to the education and welfare of the local population. By teaching the classics and introducing new agricultural techniques, these exiles turned their misfortune into a legacy of enlightenment for the island.
Over the centuries, the temple complex has undergone several renovations and expansions. It survived the turbulent years of the early 20th century and was meticulously restored to preserve its Ming and Qing dynasty aesthetics. Today, it stands not just as a religious site, but as a monument to the integrity and resilience of the Chinese literati class.
The history of the site is also inextricably linked to the famous poet Su Dongpo, who was also exiled to Hainan. While he is honored in a separate hall within the same complex, his presence adds another layer of historical depth. The entire area functions as a living history book, detailing how some of China's greatest minds flourished even in the face of political adversity.
Exploring the Grounds: Exhibits and Facilities
The centerpiece of the complex is the "First Building of Hainan," which houses the statues of the five lords. These life-sized figures are depicted in traditional scholar-official robes, looking out with expressions of calm dignity. The interior is decorated with commemorative tablets and scrolls featuring eulogies written by subsequent generations of poets and leaders.
Surrounding the main hall are several smaller pavilions and auxiliary buildings, including the Guajia Hall and the Xuepu Hall. These spaces often house rotating exhibits of local calligraphy, traditional paintings, and archaeological finds from the Haikou region. The exhibits provide context for the artistic styles that flourished in Hainan under the influence of the exiled scholars.
The facilities for visitors are well-integrated into the historical landscape. Clean stone pathways lead you through the "Floating Island" area and across the bridges of the Xitai Pond. There are numerous shaded benches and quiet corners designed for contemplation, ensuring that the site never feels overcrowded despite its popularity.
For those interested in the finer details, the site features a dedicated museum section that displays ancient stone steles. These carvings are essential for understanding the linguistic and historical evolution of the region. Additionally, a small gift shop offers traditional Hainan crafts and reproductions of the famous calligraphy found on the temple walls, allowing visitors to take a piece of history home.
The Legend of the "First Building"
The main structure is famously called the "First Building in Hainan" because of its architectural significance and its height at the time of construction. It is an engineering marvel of its era, utilizing a sophisticated interlocking bracket system that allows the wooden frame to remain flexible yet sturdy against the elements.
Looking up at the eaves, you can see the intricate "Dougong" brackets that characterize high-tier Chinese architecture. These details are not just for show; they distribute the weight of the massive roof, allowing for the wide, open interior spaces where ceremonies are still occasionally held today.
Su Dongpo’s Enduring Influence
While the temple is named for five lords, the shadow of the great poet Su Dongpo looms large over the grounds. His dedicated memorial, the Sugong Temple, sits adjacent to the main complex. It is said that Su Dongpo's time in Hainan was one of his most productive literary periods, despite the hardships of his exile.
Visitors often flock to the "Xishen Spring," which Su Dongpo is said to have discovered. The spring remains a focal point of the garden, symbolizing the "cleansing of the mind" that the poet sought during his stay. It bridges the gap between the historical figures and the natural beauty of the Hainan landscape.
A Masterpiece of Garden Artistry
The Temple of the Five Lords is as much a botanical garden as it is a historical site. The landscaping follows the principles of traditional Chinese garden design, where every view is framed like a painting. The use of water, rockeries, and indigenous plants creates a "mountain in the city" feel.
The ancient banyan trees on the site are centuries old, their massive aerial roots creating a dramatic backdrop for the red-lacquered buildings. During the summer, the lotus ponds bloom in vibrant pinks and whites, attracting local artists who come to capture the classic scene. This integration of flora and history makes it a premier destination for those seeking tranquility.