Hokkaido Tavern
Hakodate
A Port Town Classic: Introduction to Ashitaya
Hakodate Sakaba Ashitaya is the quintessential Hakodate izakaya, embodying the rugged yet welcoming spirit of Japan’s most famous port city. Located within the Hakoviva "Ekimae Yokocho," it offers a curated look at the region’s diverse culinary landscape, from the legendary seafood of the Okhotsk Sea to the hearty meat dishes of the Tokachi plains.
It is a place designed for discovery, where the menu is as much a conversation starter as the decor. Whether you are a solo traveler looking for a seat at the counter or a group wanting to sample local highballs, Ashitaya provides an accessible yet deeply authentic slice of Hokkaido life that avoids the typical tourist-trap clichés.
Echoes of the Past: The History
While Ashitaya is part of the modern Hakoviva development, its heart is firmly rooted in the history of Hakodate’s post-war "Yatatai" (food stall) culture. The restaurant was conceptualized to preserve the "Showan" atmosphere—a period of rapid growth and vibrant social life in Japan—ensuring that the traditions of the local izakaya aren't lost to modern minimalism.
Over the years, it has become a favorite for its commitment to local sourcing. By maintaining close ties with Hakodate’s fish markets and southern Hokkaido farmers, Ashitaya has built a reputation for serving "market-to-table" fare long before it was a global trend. This dedication to local roots makes it a cornerstone of the Hakodate station dining scene.
Showa Nostalgia: Interior Design
The interior of Ashitaya is a visual love letter to 1950s and 60s Japan. The space is defined by its clever use of reclaimed-style wood, vintage enamel advertising signs, and the iconic red lanterns (aka-chouchin) that signal a welcoming izakaya. It is cozy, bustling, and intentionally cluttered in a way that feels warm and lived-in rather than cramped.
Guests can choose between the high-energy counter seats, where you can watch the staff prep drinks and small plates, or the traditional raised "tatami" style seating that encourages lingering over a slow meal. The "yokocho" (alleyway) theme continues throughout, with the restaurant opening up into the wider complex, blurring the lines between the shop and the street to create a truly communal dining environment.
The Local Favorites: Top 3 Renowned Dishes
Hakodate "Ika Sashi" (Squid Sashimi)
Hakodate is the squid capital of Japan, and Ashitaya serves it with pride. The squid is sliced with expert precision to maintain its translucent appearance and firm, snappy texture. Served with a touch of ginger and soy, it is a clean, sweet, and essential taste of the local harbor that pair perfectly with a dry sake.
The "Kombu" Shochu
While not a food dish in the traditional sense, this is the most talked-about item on the menu. A glass of premium shochu is served with a massive, whole stalk of dried Hokkaido kelp (kombu) inside. As you stir the drink, the kelp infuses the spirit with a deep, savory umami flavor that is entirely unique to this region and a must-try for any adventurous drinker.
Butakushi (Grilled Pork Skewers)
In a nod to the Muroran and Hakodate style of yakitori (which often uses pork), these skewers are grilled over high heat until the fat is rendered and the edges are crispy. Seasoned simply with salt or a secret "tare" sauce, they represent the hearty, "working-class" soul of Hokkaido’s pub food—simple, satisfying, and incredibly addictive.
