Hakodate
A Charming Port City in Hokkaido
Hokkaido’s Gateway to History and Romance
Whilst not technically a 'small town', Hakodate is most likely not on your radar as somewhere to visit; it should be. Hakodate serves as the stunning southern anchor of Hokkaido, welcoming travelers with an "easy-breezy" holiday vibe that contrasts beautifully with the bustling energy of Tokyo. Shaped like a fan spreading out from the base of Mount Hakodate, the city is framed by the sea on three sides, ensuring that fresh ocean breezes and even fresher seafood are never more than a few steps away.
The city is perhaps most famous for its romantic atmosphere, particularly in the Motomachi district where steep, cobblestone slopes lead your eyes directly to the sapphire waters of the port. It is a place where history isn't just in books; it’s in the salty air of the bay, the clanging of the retro streetcars, and the glowing lanterns of the night markets.
History and Culture
A Portal to the World
Hakodate’s modern story began in 1854 when it became one of the first five Japanese ports opened to international trade following the Convention of Kanagawa. This marked the end of Japan's long period of isolation, and Hakodate quickly transformed into a cosmopolitan hub where Russian, British, and American merchants left an indelible mark on the city's skyline.
The Star of the North
In the mid-1860s, the Tokugawa Shogunate commissioned the construction of Fort Goryokaku. Designed by Takeda Ayasaburo, it was Japan’s first Western-style fortress, featuring a unique five-pointed star shape intended to minimize blind spots for defensive cannons. It stands today as a testament to the rapid modernization of the era.
The Last Stand of the Samurai
Hakodate was the setting for the final chapter of the Boshin War. In 1868, rebels loyal to the Shogunate established the short-lived Republic of Ezo, making Fort Goryōkaku their headquarters. The subsequent Battle of Hakodate in 1869 saw the final defeat of the samurai forces, paving the way for the unified Meiji government and the modernization of Japan.
Fire and Resilience
Throughout the early 20th century, Hakodate suffered from several devastating fires, most notably in 1934. These fires reshaped the city, leading to wider streets and the rebuilding of many iconic structures in brick and stone. This resilience is a core part of the local identity, as seen in the beautifully restored Old Public Hall and the surrounding Motomachi district.
The Maritime Connection
Historically, Hakodate’s heartbeat was its ferry connection to Aomori on the main island of Honshu. For decades, the Seikan Ferry was the lifeblood of Hokkaido. While the Seikan Tunnel now carries Shinkansen bullet trains beneath the sea, the museum ship Mashu Maru remains docked at the pier, preserving the city’s rich maritime heritage.
Natural Beauty
Hakodate is surrounded by breathtaking natural scenery, including mountains, forests, and the ocean. One of the most popular attractions is the Goryokaku Park, a star-shaped fortress built in the 1860s. The park offers stunning views of the city and the surrounding area, especially during the cherry blossom season.
Another must-visit destination is the Hakodate Mountain Observatory. From the summit, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the city, the Tsugaru Strait, and the nearby islands. The observatory is also a popular spot for watching the sunset, which is often accompanied by a vibrant display of colors. For those looking to immerse themselves in the local nature, a network of well-maintained hiking trails winds from the summit back down to the base. These paths offer a peaceful alternative to the ropeway, allowing you to discover hidden viewpoints and seasonal flora at your own pace while descending toward the city below.
Dining Options
Seafood at the Source
No visit to Hakodate is complete without a morning trip to the Asaichi (Morning Market). Here, the city’s "City Fish"—the squid—takes center stage. For a truly local experience, try "Ika Somen" (squid cut into thin, noodle-like strips) or the famous "Dancing Squid Bowl" (Ika Odori Don), where the seafood is as fresh as it gets.
Global Flavors and Local Favorites
Beyond the ocean’s bounty, Hakodate is home to the legendary Lucky Pierrot, a zany, award-winning burger chain found only in this region. For something more traditional, seek out a bowl of Hakodate Shio Ramen, a clear, salt-based broth that is considered one of the three great ramen styles of Hokkaido.
Nightlife
Hakodate is a vibrant city with a lively nightlife. The Motomachi district is a popular spot for evening entertainment, with its many bars, pubs, and live music venues. Visitors can enjoy a nightcap at a cozy bar or dance the night away at a lively club.
For a more relaxed evening, head to the Susukino district, which is known for its traditional Japanese-style bars and izakayas. These establishments offer a casual atmosphere and a wide selection of drinks and snacks.
Cherry Blossoms in Hakodate
A Sea of Pink Stars
Goryokaku Park is arguably the most spectacular place in Hokkaido to witness the sakura season. Over 1,500 cherry trees, primarily of the Somei Yoshino variety, line the star-shaped moats, creating a "pink carpet" effect when viewed from the 107-meter-tall Goryokaku Tower. In late spring, the falling petals often cover the surface of the water, creating stunning hana-ikada (flower rafts) that trace the geometric outline of the historic fort.
Hanami and Heritage
For a more local vibe, head to Hakodate Park at the foot of the mountain. Established in 1879, it is one of Japan's oldest Western-style parks and features hundreds of trees that create a canopy over its winding paths. The park takes on a vintage atmosphere at night when illuminated lanterns are lit, casting a warm glow over the blossoms and the small, nostalgic mini-zoo located within the grounds.
The Tradition of Jingisukan
During the peak bloom, typically in late April or early May, the air in Hakodate's parks is filled with the savory scent of Jingisukan (mutton BBQ). This is a quintessentially Hokkaido way to celebrate spring, where groups of friends and family rent grills to cook under the cherry trees. Unlike the more reserved hanami parties in Tokyo, Hakodate’s celebrations are boisterous, social, and deeply rooted in the island's unique culinary culture.
Blossoms with a View
For those who prefer a side of history with their flowers, the Motomachi district offers a different perspective. Here, the cherry blossoms frame the architecture of the Russian Orthodox Church and the Old Public Hall, providing a striking contrast between the soft pink petals and the bold colors of the colonial-style buildings. Walking down the slopes toward the harbor, you can catch glimpses of the sea framed by blooming branches, a view unique to this port city.
The Late-Blooming Advantage
Because of its northern latitude, Hakodate is one of the last places in Japan to experience the cherry blossom season, often peaking two to three weeks after Kyoto or Tokyo. This makes it a prime destination for travelers who may have missed the "main" season further south. The cooler Hokkaido breeze ensures the blossoms stay on the trees longer, allowing for a more relaxed and extended window to enjoy one of Japan’s most iconic natural spectacles.
Accommodation Options
Historic Luxury and Modern Comfort
Hakodate offers a diverse range of stays, from high-end ryokans in the Yunokawa Onsen district to boutique hotels in the Bay Area. For those wanting to be in the heart of the action, hotels near JR Hakodate Station, like the Four Points by Sheraton Hakodate, provide easy access to the morning market and the tram lines, often featuring top-floor baths with views of the harbor.
Waterfront Charms
If you prefer a more atmospheric stay, consider the HakoBA Hakodate, which blends modern hostel-style social spaces with a restored bank building. Staying in the Motomachi or Red Brick Warehouse area allows you to experience the city's romantic evening glow long after the day-trippers have departed for Sapporo.
Interesting Things to See In & Around Hakodate
The Million-Dollar View
The ascent to the summit of Mount Hakodate via the ropeway is a mandatory pilgrimage for any traveler. At night, the city lights flicker between the dark expanses of the bay and the strait, creating an hourglass shape that is consistently ranked among the top three night views in Japan.
Western Influences in Motomachi
A stroll through the Motomachi District reveals a fascinating collection of foreign influences. Highlights include the Russian Orthodox Church with its iconic green "onion" domes and the Old British Consulate. The area’s steep slopes, like Hachiman-zaka, offer famous photographic views that lead straight down to the Mashu Maru museum ship in the harbor.
Anything Else That is Interesting
The Red Brick Warehouses
The Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses are a symbol of the city’s trading past. Built in 1868 and rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1907, these atmospheric buildings have been converted into a vibrant shopping and dining complex. It’s the perfect spot for a stroll at dusk when the brickwork is illuminated against the darkening sky.
A Day Trip to Onuma Quasi-National Park
Just a short 20-minute train ride away lies Onuma Quasi-National Park, a serene landscape of lakes and islands formed by the eruptions of Mount Komagatake. You can explore the park via a series of bridges connecting the islets, rent a bicycle for a lakeside ride, or even try the unique "squid ink" soft-serve ice cream.
The Trappistine Monastery
Located on the outskirts of the city, the Trappistine Monastery was the first women’s convent in Japan, established in 1898. While the interior remains closed to the public to preserve the nuns' contemplative life, the beautiful brick architecture and meticulously manicured gardens offer a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into Hakodate’s spiritual diversity.
The Stained Glass Street Lamps of Yunokawa
The light pole decorations near Yukura Shrine in the Yunokawa Onsen district are a striking example of Hakodate’s "haikara" (Western-style) aesthetic, blending traditional Japanese surroundings with European-inspired glasswork. The triangular panels, like the one in your photo, often feature vibrant stained glass mosaics that depict local flora and historic architecture. This specific design showcases lush purple and blue hydrangeas, which are a seasonal highlight of the region, framed against the silhouettes of Western-style buildings that reflect Hakodate's history as an international port city.
These illuminated art pieces serve as a visual bridge between the spiritual atmosphere of the shrine and the nostalgic charm of the surrounding hot spring resort. While Yukura Shrine is famously guarded by the "Nadeshiko Rabbit" and serves as the protector of the local waters, these lamps extend that sense of beauty into the streets. By day, the sunlight catches the textured glass to create a brilliant "jewel-box" effect against the sky, while at night, they cast a warm, multi-colored glow that guides visitors through one of Hokkaido’s most historic neighborhoods.
The Moori Market and Waterfront Vibe
While the Morning Market is the headline act, the Moori area of the port provides a deeper look into the city's living relationship with the sea. This district is where the industrial side of Hakodate meets its tourism appeal, featuring local vendors who have operated for generations. Strolling through this area, you'll see the daily catch being processed and specialized shops selling high-quality kombu (kelp) and dried seafood that are staple ingredients in Hokkaido’s famous dashi. It is a place that feels less like a tourist attraction and more like the functional heart of a city that has always looked to the ocean for its survival.
The Hakodate Jomon Culture Center
A short journey to the outskirts of the city reveals a history much older than the port: the Hakodate Jomon Culture Center. This museum is home to Hokkaido’s only National Treasure, the "Hollow Dogu" (clay figurine), which dates back approximately 3,500 years. The center is built adjacent to the Kakinoshima Site, a massive Jomon-period settlement that is part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing. Here, visitors can explore the sophisticated lives of Japan’s indigenous hunter-gatherer-collectors, who thrived in this region for millennia before the first samurai or Western traders ever set foot on the peninsula.