Fukuyama
A Hidden Gem in Japan
A Gateway to the Seto Inland Sea
Fukuyama serves as a sophisticated bridge between Japan’s storied past and its vibrant, floral present. As the second-largest city in Hiroshima Prefecture, it often surprises visitors with its accessibility—the majestic Fukuyama Castle is so close to the Shinkansen station that it feels like an immediate welcome into the Edo period. Beyond the steel and glass of the modern city center lies a landscape defined by the "Rose Mind," a local philosophy of kindness and resilience that blossomed from the post-war reconstruction of the 1950s.
Venturing just south of the city center leads to the breathtaking Tomonoura, a circular port town that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. This area is so visually striking that it served as the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s Ponyo and provided the backdrop for Hollywood’s The Wolverine. From the scent of a million blooming roses in May to the gentle lapping of waves against ancient stone piers, Fukuyama offers a sensory experience that captures the heart of coastal Japan.
The Iron-Clad History of Fukuyama
The story of Fukuyama began in 1619 when Mizuno Katsunari, a cousin of the Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, was granted the domain to protect western Japan. He completed Fukuyama Castle in 1622, a formidable fortress that was unique for its northern wall, which was reinforced with iron plates to defend against cannon fire—a design feature found nowhere else in Japan. For centuries, the castle stood as the seat of power for the Mizuno and later the Abe clans, overseeing a prosperous castle town.
The city’s trajectory changed forever on August 8, 1945, when an Allied air raid destroyed over 80% of the urban area, including the original national treasure castle tower. In the wake of this devastation, the citizens of Fukuyama turned to roses as a symbol of hope. Starting with just 1,000 seedlings planted in what is now Rose Park, the city committed to a "City of Roses" initiative to heal the spirits of its residents and beautify the scorched earth.
Today, the reconstructed castle tower, which was faithfully rebuilt in 1966 and further renovated for its 400th anniversary in 2022, serves as a museum of the region's history. It stands not only as a monument to the samurai era but also as a testament to the city's ability to rise from the ashes. The surrounding park remains the cultural heart of the city, hosting festivals that celebrate both its martial heritage and its floral future.
The history of Fukuyama also extends to its spiritual landmarks, such as the Myoo-in Temple. This temple houses two National Treasures: a main hall built in the 14th century and a five-story pagoda. These structures survived the fires of war, providing a rare and direct link to the medieval architecture of the Bingo region.
Dining in the City of Roses
Fukuyama’s culinary scene is heavily influenced by the riches of the Seto Inland Sea. A local specialty not to be missed is Uzumi-meshi, a historical dish born from Edo-period sumptuary laws. When commoners were forbidden from eating luxury ingredients, they hid seafood and vegetables at the bottom of a bowl, covering them with a layer of white rice to avoid detection. Today, it is enjoyed as a flavorful "hidden" treasure of shrimp, sea bream, and taro.
In the port of Tomonoura, dining takes on a more nostalgic flavor with Homeishu, a medicinal liqueur made from 16 different herbs. This "Life-Preserving Liquor" has been brewed in the town since the 1650s and is often paired with fresh local catches like Tai (Sea Bream). Many waterfront restaurants offer sea bream sashimi or Tai-meshi (sea bream rice), allowing you to dine while overlooking the very waters where the fish was caught.
Accommodation for Every Traveler
For those seeking modern convenience, the area surrounding Fukuyama Station offers a variety of high-quality business and luxury hotels. These are ideal for travelers using the city as a base to explore the wider Hiroshima and Okayama regions, providing easy access to the Shinkansen and local bus lines. Many of these hotels offer "Rose Room" themes or city views that overlook the illuminated castle walls at night.
For a more authentic experience, the ryokans (traditional inns) in Tomonoura provide an unforgettable stay. These establishments often feature hot spring baths with views of the islands of Sensuijima and Bentenjima. Waking up to the sound of fishing boats leaving the harbor and enjoying a traditional multi-course kaiseki breakfast is the ultimate way to soak in the "time-slip" atmosphere of the historic port.
Exploring the Iron Castle and Its Grounds
Fukuyama Castle: A Samurai Landmark
Fukuyama Castle is the city's crown jewel. Following its recent renovation, the exterior's unique black iron plating has been restored, giving it a powerful and distinct appearance compared to Japan's more common white-walled castles. Inside, the museum uses modern technology and interactive displays to tell the story of the Mizuno clan and the architectural ingenuity required to build such a massive fortification in just three years.
The Castle Park Cultural Hub
The grounds surrounding the castle, known as Fukuyama Castle Park, are a cultural complex in their own right. Visitors can explore the Fukuyama Museum of Art and the Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of History, which features a fascinating life-sized reconstruction of a medieval town discovered nearby. In the spring, the park becomes one of the region's premier cherry blossom viewing spots, with hundreds of trees framing the dark castle walls.
Nearby Attractions and Hidden Gems
Tomonoura: The Port of Inspiration
A short bus ride from the city center takes you to Tomonoura, a town that feels suspended in the Edo period. The Joyato stone lighthouse, standing 11 meters tall, is the symbol of the town and has guided sailors for over 160 years. Walking through the narrow streets, you’ll find ancient merchant houses and the Ota Residence, where the famous Homeishu liqueur was first produced.
Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens
For a modern take on Japanese spirituality, the Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens is essential. This vast complex features the Kohtei pavilion—a stunning, ship-like structure covered in traditional wood shingles that seems to float over a sea of stones. Visitors can participate in Zen meditation, enjoy hand-whisked matcha in a historic teahouse, or try traditional Udon noodles served in the style of Zen monks.
The Soul of the City: Roses and Art
Fukuyama is officially the "City of a Million Roses," and this isn't just a marketing slogan. Every May, the city erupts in color during the Fukuyama Rose Festival. Rose Park and Hanazono Park become the epicenter of celebrations, featuring over 500 varieties of roses. The city even has its own breed, the "Rose Fukuyama," a vibrant pink flower that embodies the local spirit of "compassion, kindness, and cooperation."
Beyond the flowers, Fukuyama is a city of hidden artistic treasures. The Taichoro Reception Hall at Fukuzen-ji Temple offers what 18th-century Korean envoys called "the most beautiful view in Japan." The window frame of the hall perfectly captures the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, creating a "living painting" that has remained unchanged for centuries.