Mori
Mori is a Hidden Gem in Southern Hokkaido
The Gateway to Funka Bay: An Introduction to Mori
Nestled along the shores of Uchiura Bay (also known as Volcano Bay), Mori is a town defined by its stunning natural geography. To the south, the active volcano of Mt. Komagatake provides a dramatic backdrop, while the fertile volcanic soil has made the region a powerhouse for agriculture, particularly for melons and prunes.
The town’s name comes from the Ainu word "Oniushi," meaning "a place with many trees." This heritage is still felt today in the lush parks that transform into a sea of pink every spring. Mori serves as a vital transportation hub on the JR Hakodate Main Line, making it an easy and rewarding stop for travelers exploring the Oshima Peninsula from either Sapporo City or Hakodate.
A Journey Through Time: 4,000 Years of Mori History
The history of Mori stretches back millennia to the Jomon period. The Washinoki Stone Circle, discovered during highway construction in 2003, is one of the largest in Hokkaido. Dating back to 2,000 BCE, these 602 stones were meticulously arranged in concentric circles, serving as a sacred site for rituals and burials, proving that Mori has been a center of community life for over 4,000 years.
In more recent centuries, Mori played a strategic role in the development of Hokkaido. In 1868, during the Boshin War, Enomoto Takeaki and his Shogunate forces landed at Washinoki to establish the Republic of Ezo. This historic landing site is marked today by a monument, serving as a reminder of the town’s role in the birth of modern Japan.
During the Meiji era, Mori became a crucial link in the "Sapporo Road," the main transportation route between Hakodate and the new capital of Sapporo. Travelers would arrive by sea from Muroran at the Mori Pier, the ruins of which can still be seen today. This bustling maritime activity laid the foundation for the town’s commercial growth.
World War II brought about one of Mori’s most famous cultural exports: Ikameshi. Invented at Mori Station in 1941 to conserve rice during food shortages, this simple dish of rice-stuffed squid became a national sensation. What started as a wartime necessity is now celebrated as one of Japan’s most iconic "Ekiben" (station lunch boxes).
Today, Mori continues to preserve its heritage while looking toward the future. From its Jomon roots to its Shogunate battlefields and its post-war culinary triumphs, the town’s history is a rich tapestry that reflects the resilient and resourceful spirit of the people of Hokkaido.
Dining Delights: From Squid Rice to Fresh Scallops
The Birthplace of Ikameshi
You cannot visit Mori without trying the original Ikameshi from Abe Shoten at Mori Station. This tender squid, stuffed with a blend of glutinous and non-glutinous rice and simmered in a secret sweet-and-savory soy sauce, has been a local staple since 1941. For a sit-down meal, Tokotei is a local favorite, renowned for its rich miso and unique curry ramen.
Fresh Bounty from the Bay
Thanks to the rich waters of Uchiura Bay, Mori is famous for its scallop aquaculture. Visit the Michi-no-Eki Tsudoru Plaza Sawara to sample fresh scallop dishes or purchase locally harvested seafood products. The combination of fresh seafood and volcanic-soil-grown vegetables makes Mori a premier destination for foodies.
Interesting Things to See in and Around Mori
Oniushi Park
Oniushi Park is a premier destination for nature lovers in Mori, distinguished by its unique name derived from the Ainu word "Oniushi," which translates to a "place with many trees". This expansive green space is famous for its collection of approximately 500 cherry trees, including rare local varieties like the "Oniushi-zakura" and "Komami-zakura" that you won't find elsewhere. Visitors during the spring are treated to a spectacular canopy of pink blossoms that frame the park's walking paths and open lawns.
Beyond the seasonal flowers, the park offers one of the most iconic views in southern Hokkaido: a breathtaking panoramic vista of the active volcano Mt. Komagatake rising across the blue waters of Uchiura Bay. This dramatic backdrop makes it a favorite spot for photographers and picnickers alike, especially during the cherry blossom festival held in early May when the park comes alive with food stalls and local celebrations.
The park is also home to the Michi-no-Eki "Tsudoru Plaza Sawara," a roadside rest area where you can climb an observation deck for an even higher vantage point of the surrounding landscape. Whether you are stopping by to stretch your legs during a coastal drive or spending an afternoon exploring its quiet groves, Oniushi Park serves as a perfect introduction to the natural beauty and volcanic geography that define the Mori region.
Sakura Bliss at Oniushi and Aobagaoka Parks
Mori is one of Southern Hokkaido’s premier cherry blossom destinations. Oniushi Park and the adjacent Aobagaoka Park boast over 1,500 cherry trees across dozens of varieties. During the peak bloom in May, the parks are a vibrant canopy of pink, offering some of the best "hanami" (flower viewing) spots in the region.
The Mysteries of Torizaki Valley
A short drive inland takes you to the Torizaki Valley, known for the "Torizaki Hakkei" (Eight Scenic Spots). Highlights include the dynamic Kamiootaki Falls and the strangely shaped Shishihazama rock, which resembles a lion’s head. The valley is particularly breathtaking in autumn when the foliage turns brilliant shades of gold and red.
Extra Insights into Mori
The Jomon Heritage Center
The Jomon Heritage Center serves as a vital window into the prehistoric soul of southern Hokkaido, specifically showcasing artifacts from the nearby Washinoki Stone Circle. Although the actual stone circle site is often restricted to the public to ensure its preservation, the center provides an immersive experience through high-quality 3D models and detailed archaeological displays. Visitors can observe 4,000-year-old pottery and ritual tools that illuminate the sophisticated spiritual lives and community structures of the Jomon people who settled this volcanic landscape millennia ago.
Beyond the physical exhibits, the center emphasizes the historical continuity of Mori, linking the ancient Jomon traditions to the town’s modern identity. It provides essential context for the Washinoki area, which later became famous as the 1868 landing site for Shogunate forces during the Boshin War. By visiting the center, you gain a deeper appreciation for how the fertile soil of Mt. Komagatake has supported human life for over 4,000 years, making it an indispensable stop for anyone interested in the deep roots of Japanese civilization..
Mt. Komagatake: The Guardian Volcano
Dominating the skyline, Mt. Komagatake is an active volcano that has shaped the town's landscape and history. While hiking to the summit is a challenge reserved for the experienced, the lower slopes offer accessible trails and panoramic views of the entire bay area, making it a must-see landmark for nature photographers.
Pokemon Manhole Covers (Pokéfuta)
For a modern scavenger hunt, look for the unique Pokemon manhole cover near Mori Station. It features the Alolan Vulpix and Inkay, part of a prefecture-wide initiative to celebrate Hokkaido’s unique towns. It’s a fun, small detail that adds a bit of modern